Austrian rain sent many into the cafes and coinci- dentally nine kids barged into my secret, old fashioned cafe called Wernbacher, interrupting my nostalgic revery. Wernbacher Cafe was the first to introduce Salzburgians to Italian espresso and it's decor has seemingly not changed since 1953. Wafting out of the speaker?--Charlie Parker, Dinah Washington and The Swingle Singers (of all people--you remember their a cappella versions of Bach and Mozart in the '60s?). I was left wondering if the owner is hip or if they haven't changed the playlist for 40 years either. Anyway, I set down willingly my book, The Angel's Game--Carlos Ruiz Zafon's new prequel to his extraordinary Shadow of the Wind-- because it's not as good as latter (in this sentence) but the former as in previous, and I attempted to educate them on the peculiar charms of Austrian Modernism.
Of course my students already know the place Mid-century Modern has in my life. They know my love of Eero Saarninen Tulip Chairs, Charles and Ray Eames' Chaise Lounge Chair, and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's Barcelona Chair. In fact we've seen some of these on our trip. Joe L. and friends saw in a Lucerne storefront Eames' fiberglass rocking chair. We caught Nora in an Arne Jacobsen's Egg Chair in the Pullman Bercy Hotel in Paris. This chair was designed in 1958 for a Radisson Hotel in Copenhagen. We also noticed with breathtaking admiration an Isamu Noguchi glass coffee table at the Pullman. My wife and I so admire this 1944 creation of pure abstract simplicity--two interconnecting wooden bases and one slab of glass--that I not only have to show you a photo but have to admit we've made two trips out to Palm Springs just to buy one, only to pull back at the last second. Some day. Some day.
Anyway, Austrian modernism is more rectangular than Scandinavian modernism, which employs the curvilinear line to sensual heights. Austrian modernism is an offshoot of German Bauhaus, so limited by its idealistic propaganda of creating houses that were "machines for living," as Le Corbusier said. But Bauhaus opened up new possibilities and ultimately changed everything.
I pointed out the cafe's mahogany, straight-backed chairs with royal blue and maroon upholstery, the lighting structures, and the square art deco coffee bar. They nodded with fake enthusiasm and went back to finishing their caprese salad on toast. Then they left looking for their Bosna-loving friends--mostly the boys, although Jillian had 7 in three days. Bosna is a double beef/pork combo frankfurter spiced with curry powder and mustard. It's unique to Salzburg and is cheap.
On to Lucerne.
Truly with curry,
LV
That first chair is probably the coolest chair that I have ever seen in my life. Wish I could get one for my room. And also, the food and coffee looks amazing. Clearly, going inside the cafe because of rain didn't' seem too bad. I will also be looking forward to a great EuroTrip this summer. At least i'll know one place to go to if it rains in Austria.
ReplyDeleteBrandon Fu (Per 1)
First of all the layout of this entry caught my attention with the pictures of sleek designs like the ones we are studying in class at the top. I continued to read and found that I had more of a picture in my mind of what you saw with the descriptive words that you used than just by looking at a cool chair and snazzy table. This trip really looks amazing and I wish I could go!
ReplyDeleteIlana Elroi (Period 0)
After reading this I must say although the interesting comments and pictures on the day itself sound very interesting, especially the comments on the chairs. But what truly intrigued me and makes me regret my decision on deciding not to attend the Europe trip is the FOOD. The photographs of the food seems delightful but what sounds absolutely scrumptious to my extremely large appetite has to be the Bosna.
ReplyDeleteMehrdad Shahnazari period 1